Post by Unimog on May 30, 2008 8:35:18 GMT -7
A couple tuning tips from SCI.
Open v. closed can motors :
(Robert Livingston) "Open cans allow the magnetic field to emerge from the can and exert force on the steel rails below. A typical long can will exert 20-35 grams of downforce when it has oblong holes in the can; more when oriented anglewinder than inline or sidewinder. The same motor with no holes in the can typically exerts 0 grams of downforce. These measurements are taken with a Magnet Marshal, and the motors mounted in plastic chassis."
Lead weights
(Mike): "Be sure to try running NO extra weight...
It might surprise you! Adding weight may just slow you down. None of the guys I race with run with additional weight anymore.
More and faster lap times...!"
(Robert Livingston) "Not all weight has to be low. The winning Slot.It Shoot-Out car last year had a U-shaped length of thick solder wrapped around the topmost edge of the motor." Mark G mentioned this a while back.
Relationship of guide to rear wheel track:
(Martini917K) "Look for info on the "Magic Triangle", the closer you are to that seems to net a better performing car. The front wheels are a secondary consideration; setting them up w/ hard, low-profile tires helps to prevent them from being a "drag" factor.
1.6:1
That is the length between axle and pin* is 1.6 times longer than the track of the car (track as measured from outside of rim to outside of rim).
*pin = pivot point of the guide, or centerline of the guide post-hole in the chassis"
(Beejay7) "For tracks with long straights and wide turns a long wheel based car with guide flag well to the front was considered best, for small tight twisty tracks a shorter wheelbase car with guide nearer the front axle was considered the better option.
I think this "rule of thumb" helped the average driver but a good driver could always win with either type of car."
Open v. closed can motors :
(Robert Livingston) "Open cans allow the magnetic field to emerge from the can and exert force on the steel rails below. A typical long can will exert 20-35 grams of downforce when it has oblong holes in the can; more when oriented anglewinder than inline or sidewinder. The same motor with no holes in the can typically exerts 0 grams of downforce. These measurements are taken with a Magnet Marshal, and the motors mounted in plastic chassis."
Lead weights
(Mike): "Be sure to try running NO extra weight...
It might surprise you! Adding weight may just slow you down. None of the guys I race with run with additional weight anymore.
More and faster lap times...!"
(Robert Livingston) "Not all weight has to be low. The winning Slot.It Shoot-Out car last year had a U-shaped length of thick solder wrapped around the topmost edge of the motor." Mark G mentioned this a while back.
Relationship of guide to rear wheel track:
(Martini917K) "Look for info on the "Magic Triangle", the closer you are to that seems to net a better performing car. The front wheels are a secondary consideration; setting them up w/ hard, low-profile tires helps to prevent them from being a "drag" factor.
1.6:1
That is the length between axle and pin* is 1.6 times longer than the track of the car (track as measured from outside of rim to outside of rim).
*pin = pivot point of the guide, or centerline of the guide post-hole in the chassis"
(Beejay7) "For tracks with long straights and wide turns a long wheel based car with guide flag well to the front was considered best, for small tight twisty tracks a shorter wheelbase car with guide nearer the front axle was considered the better option.
I think this "rule of thumb" helped the average driver but a good driver could always win with either type of car."