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Post by markdg on Jan 14, 2008 17:25:47 GMT -7
Eminem, Neill and I were talking about a potential class for the commercial track. What we're planning on is a 1/24 - 1/25 (1955- 80) hardbody domestic class with a H&R chassis underneath. There'll be a spec motor, gearing and tires. A concours d'elegance will be held with a yet to be determined prize awarded to the judges choice. Cars will have a minimum of three number on them. A pan interior is required though you can go crazy with a kit interior if you so choose. I'm sure a few tweaks are in the offing but this is the general idea.
Hardbody kits run from $10 on up and the RTR chassis will be around $45.
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Post by Unimog on Jan 14, 2008 19:48:03 GMT -7
Good idea! The H&R chassis comes complete with a motor, gearing, wheels, tires etc. Is there a need to choose a different spec motor?
Craig
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Post by markdg on Jan 14, 2008 21:07:50 GMT -7
Actually, the thinking is that the stock motor (40K at 12V) is too much. Mark M is going to get one in and see whats it's really like and then make a determination.
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Post by Unimog on Jan 16, 2008 8:00:43 GMT -7
I have one (w/o a body mounted). I'll give it a try on my newly almost completed Carrera track and report back.
Craig
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Post by markdg on Jan 16, 2008 9:07:22 GMT -7
Have at it and I just got an email this morning from Mark, he had three H&R chassis come in. I may pick one up and do a little R&D myself. The stock rims have to go IMHO, they're just plain ugly.
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Post by Unimog on Jan 16, 2008 10:20:55 GMT -7
Well I tried out my H&R chassis on my Carrera track. I am NOT impressed. Pretty sloppy construction. The first thing I had to do was rework the guide. The guide tab was bent and the spacer on the guide shaft lifted the front wheels about 1/2" off the track. I rebent the guide tab and relocated the spacer. Better, but now the front left wheel is up in the air. Spung chassis? No. Guess what. The chassis holes for the front wheels are drilled at different heights! Arrrrgh. Well, see if she runs. Terrible gear mesh noise. Adjust, adjust. Better, but still very noisy. And the motor tab is bent and braced so the motor is off the longitudinal axis. Foam tires are worthless on my track, maybe better on the commercial track. The motor does seem a little crisp, but without traction it is tough to tell. Maybe with a bunch of work, but the one I have is a dog. I've read a few threads on the H&R - mostly positive. The guide tongue is bent downwards intentionally I guess. One person said all metal chassis are that way ( ). I did not find comments on the different height axle drill holes or motor misalignment. Maybe I just got a bad banana. I compared an RTR Pro-track chassis (old non-adjustable type). Much smoother. Different motor I think. Somewhat lacking in braking. I also have a Pro-track adjustable "hardbody" chassis that I have not assembled yet. It has a Cheetah II motor and the guide is set back to be more under the front axle (not sticking out like the H&R and older Pro-track. It is plastic (carbon fibre?) and aluminum. The wheel base adjusts from 3 7/8" to 4 5/8." I found one online source for the 1/24 "hardbody" Pro-Track chassis kits (#512). NCP Hobbies has the RTR kit for $40 and the base chassis-only kit for $23. I suggest these kits be considered. They appear better made to me. As I say I have not yet assembled the kit, but I have assembled some similar 1/32 kits which I think are very nice.
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Post by Unimog on Jan 17, 2008 10:04:34 GMT -7
Concerning traction with the Pro Track tires that come with the H&R chassis - one person suggested coating the tires with black silicone. Or are you thinking of different tires enTIREly?
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Post by markdg on Jan 17, 2008 11:07:57 GMT -7
Concerning traction with the Pro Track tires that come with the H&R chassis - one person suggested coating the tires with black silicone. Or are you thinking of different tires enTIREly? Mark said the car wheelied out of the slot with no body on it. So I guess traction won't be an issue...
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Post by jimn on Jan 17, 2008 17:36:13 GMT -7
Mark said he could get the AMT repro that i was using, lets get those?
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Post by markdg on Jan 17, 2008 18:29:02 GMT -7
Mark said he could get the AMT repro that i was using, lets get those? No need, the H&Rs work fine.
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Post by jimn on Jan 17, 2008 18:31:42 GMT -7
Unimogs post says otherwise, splain it to me?
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Post by markmisegadis on Jan 18, 2008 11:33:00 GMT -7
Here is my current writeup. Please reply with your thoughts here. Interest is coming from many directions interestingly enough!
The RTR H&R Chassis arrived Wednesday night. These are priced right at $42.00.As I need to build to get this class rolling I pulled one out of the packaging and inspected it. The guide tongue is soldered in so it can be removed and adjusted if you need to. The chassis has an adjustable wheelbase that will fit 1/24 - 25th cars of all sizes. The total wheelbase adjustment is from 5” to 3 -11/16”s. (under 3-3/4”) It should fit nearly anything. I am going to place one of these under a Monogram Ferrari 275P. These reissued slot car body model kits have had the posts removed in the last production round which saddened all of us slot car aficionados’ and caused some to go on a letter writing campaign. This chassis will mount in the rocker panel area so this wont be an issue and finally helps me find an appropriate home for this body! I have read a few online reviews of this chassis where they mentioned things about the gear, guide flag and overall fit and finish. Here is what I found. * The brass frame is square and appears to be flat. If it weren’t.. It’s BRASS and the possibilities are endless. * The crown gear is a Parma PSE gear molded in blue plastic. * Gear mesh needs to be set as it was a little loose from the MFG. Easy task. * Guide flag is a Jet flag clone. Standard for the hobby for years. * The motor is rated at 40,000 RPM. More below on this. * The rear tires appear to be a Fish or Natural rubber on aluminum rims that are round and they will accept the kit wheels as inserts well. The Fronts are standard foam. The Tires are a little wide for that I am going to do but that is fine and I will be narrowing them up with a razor saw in my lathe or drill. Better to have them too wide so you can trim than too narrow for your intended application. During the test run the car ran well. It did pull the guide out of the slot due to the power of the motor. This is a nice problem to have as the Falcon sized motor concerned most when considering it for a heavier injection molded body. That concern has now been put to rest. Suffice it to say you may need to add a small amount of lead to the nose. An additional review on this chassis can be seen at the following link: www.homeracingworld.com/sliderchassis.htm The current plans for this class after discussing it with the initial interested parties are to leave the body choices open as long as it’s an injection molded model body. Once a few are built up and ready to race we can break this up into classes of like cars. Right now everyone has a car in mind that they would like to make into a slot racing model and we don’t want to slow that creativity. The next plan is to shoot for a 6 hour endurance race. This would be open to four completed cars with vintage road racing bodies that each will have a team of drivers. Racing would go from light.. to a night session and then a simulated morning session. Bodies that to be ran would be of the Vintage Road Racing variety. Right now this would include your choice of the following Monogram reissues that they have produced in recent years. Chap 2d, Scarab, Ferrari 275P and Porsche 904. There may be others that are available and if you find something that would be cool.. just run it by me. We will have a sign up sheet at the Colorado Custom Hobbies for these teams. The proposed date for this is Friday February 22nd. Mark Misegadis – CCH Hours: Wednesday 5:00 – 9:00 Friday 5:00– 9:00 Saturday 10:00 – 8:00 Sunday 12:00 – 6:00 Address: 1350 N. Academy Store: (719) 632-2615 Tony (719) 337-0912 Mark (719) 649-9040
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Post by markmisegadis on Jan 18, 2008 12:05:55 GMT -7
Hi, I saw some comments in here that I thought I would compare to what I have experienced with the new H&R chassis. POSTED> The first thing I had to do was rework the guide. The guide tab was bent and the spacer on the guide shaft lifted the front wheels about 1/2" off the track. I rebent the guide tab and relocated the spacer. CCH> ½” is a lot. Looking at the one I have now that would need to be installed incorrectly to the tune of a 45% angle. I am guessing that it wasn’t this bad but perhaps yours was installed incorrectly. As it is soldered in I would not bend it but just heat up are relax that solder joint into the correct position. My car sits with all four tires on the track. If the fronts had been up I would have played with the Guide spacing. The stock one is 1/16th thick. For the usual commercial stuff you can buy these in less than .005 thick. Tuning here is usually done for the minute amounts of braid recess on various tracks and that is why there is large tunability on these spacers. POSTED> Better, but now the front left wheel is up in the air. Spung chassis? No. Guess what. The chassis holes for the front wheels are drilled at different heights! Arrrrgh. Well, see if she runs. CCH> This sounds like one I would return to the MFG. POSTED> Terrible gear mesh noise. Adjust, adjust. Better, but still very noisy. CCH> Yeah mine was loose and I had to adjust. The crown gear is a Parma PSE in Blue. I think if I were to make a change it would be for a steel pinion from Slick 7 or Champion. POSTED> And the motor tab is bent and braced so the motor is off the longitudinal axis. CCH> Yes.. it is. This is by design. Most of the cars you are used to with this size motor have smaller tires. With these Large Scale Tires the axle centerline is higher.. than if you placed the motor flat on the chassis. So.. the motor has to be raised higher to match the axle so the gears will mesh. In order to keep the center of gravity low they have rotated the nose of the motor down. This is an old trick that the Commercial guys don’t see because they run cars that are “out of scale” and the 1/32 guys don’t see…unless they have played with the larger scale cars or.. Vintage cars. Also.. if you are used to Sidewinders.. well….The mesh anywhere on the gear.. so…its not a concern. POSTED> Foam tires are worthless on my track, maybe better on the commercial track. CCH> I would coat with silicone for a plastic track. Commercial… they have more than enough grip. When I coat tires I use clear. The tires are black so it will be black. Follow this link to before and after shots my tires on this scratchbuilt car. getyourwebsitehere.com/scratchbuilt/gallery/gallery088.htmlPOSTED> The guide tongue is bent downwards intentionally I guess. One person said all metal chassis are that way ( ). I did not find comments on the different height axle drill holes or motor misalignment. Maybe I just got a bad banana. CCH> Yeah.. no.. on all metal chassis are that way. Geometry.. is geometry. No comments on your banana however. I hope this all helps. Mark Misegadis - CCH
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Post by markmisegadis on Jan 18, 2008 12:11:48 GMT -7
Jim, Your AMT repro with the AMT promo Fairlane...... Yeah.. I want to play with these in the future also. I love the 36D torque. Plus.. I have 2 black ones and one white one as well as 3 Fairlane model kits.. All horded for years for the same exact purpose as what you have. So.. dont fear.. even though we are trying to do this one Cheap and Easy for everyone. We will get there for future more traditional Vintage based scale cars. It would need to be another class but.. I am game. Mark Misegadis - CCH
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Post by markmisegadis on Jan 20, 2008 23:09:52 GMT -7
We sold out of the H&R chassis this weekend. I will be placing a new order on Monday.
One of the chassis returned today with a painted and detailed 1970's Late Model stock car body on it. It "looks" the part.
I can see where we will be able to split this off as a class of regular racing in the future. The car is on loan to me and sits in the display case at the moment.
Please feel free to come by and look at Bob Reese's handywork.
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